MARRAKECH

THE PINK CITY

 

Marrakech is a place that doesn’t disappoint. Filled with mesmerizing sights, scents, colors, and hidden gems at every corner, Marrakech emanates a certain je ne sais quoi that leaves you feeling enraptured by its energy and always wanting to come back.

Upon arrival, we were greeted by sun and dry, desert heat. We spent a total of 5 days in the Medina, surrounded by its warm pink and red walls, switching between two riads during our stay.

 
 
 

The breakdown

Language
Arabic and French. But most people, including the vendors, are fluent in English.

Currency
Moroccan DIRHAM
100 MAD = 10 USD

Best time to go
The best times to visit are from March to May and between September and November.
Even in the Spring time, when we went, the afternoon temps reached up to 28° Celsius – perfect for relaxing at the pool after a morning spent exploring.

Haggling
Marrakech is a city where you negotiate the price of everything. From cab fare to Moroccan trinkets, rugs, and spices; everything is negotiable. Our advice is to not get too caught up about prices in the souk. While no one wants to get ripped off, pay what you feel something is worth to you, even if that means paying a few MAD more. A good rule of thumb is to start your haggling price at 1/3 off the price given.

Taxis
Within the Medina walls, a taxi should not cost you more than 30-40 MAD at day. At night, the taxi prices can surge to 50 MAD. Haggle on what you feel fair for the price – telling them you have gotten the same ride for less helps get them down. And always carry small change to pay.

Dress Code
The first rule of dressing in Morocco is respecting the cultural emphasis on modesty. While there isn’t an enforced dress code, you should respect the local culture by leaving short, tight or otherwise revealing clothes at home, particularly in the Medina. The Medina is more conservative in terms of dress code. In the more modern neighborhoods of Gueliz and Hivernage, women dress more casually by Western standards – particularly at night.

 
 
 

STAY

There are two ways to approach your stay in Marrakech. Hotels by the likes of La Mamounia and Royal Mansour Marrakech offer a luxurious stay fit for a king, while the Medina’s selection of beautiful riads provide a more intimate and unique setting. Riads are traditional homes in Morocco characterized by an inner courtyard or garden.

Being that it was our first time in Marrakech, we chose to stay in the Medina, which gave us the opportunity to instantly soak up the city’s spirit.

We spent 4-nights at the magnificent boutique-riad El Fenn, a converted former palace owned by Vanessa Branson and Howell James. With 28 individually styled rooms and suites, it is one of the larger riads in the Medina. Its tree-filled courtyards, rooftop terrace, spa & hammam, and eclectically designed rooms had us swooning. Despite its grandeur, El Fenn maintains a familiar and traditional feel, providing a magical oasis of lush beauty and calm after exploring the vibrant culture of Marrakech in the mornings. Some of our favorite features included its impeccably curated interior, the hospitable staff, our 2-hour hammam experience upon our arrival, and, of course, sipping on refreshing cocktails on the rooftop as the sun sets over the Koutoubia minaret.

We spent our last night at the charming Riad 72 Living, an art-school version of a traditional Moroccan house, boasting the highest rooftop terrace in the whole Medina. Similar to El Fenn, Riad 72 is centrally located, within the walls of the Medina on a quiet road.

Other great spots to stay at included:

  • Riad Kitula

  • Beldi Country Club

  • Riad Les Yeux Bleus

  • La Villa des Orangers

  • L’Hotel Marrakech

Moments spent at our riads left us feeling like we had stepped foot into our own little oasis and were the perfect escape from the hustle and bustle of the Red City.

 
 

EAT & DRINK

Good food is always at the top of our list whenever we travel. Making sure we get a full culinary experience during our stay, we diligently did our research.

Start your day with a delicious breakfast at your hotel or riad. Traditional breakfasts will include fresh fruit, yogurt, breads and Moroccan Pancakes.  

Restaurants
For a great lunch spot, check out:

  • Le Jardin (try their roasted cauliflower hummus, artichoke salad, zucchini fritters, and fresh cheese with cucumber, mint and olive oil,)

  • La Famille (come for the inventive salads, quiches, juices and irresistible homemade cakes, all served in an Ibiza-style atmosphere)

  • Beldi Country Club (when you need to cool down, spend your day at their pool and enjoy a barbecued fish for lunch poolside)

  • Grand Café de la Poste (first opened in 1925, it’s an institution and a great place for people watching)

Some of our favorite casual eats are not only great for lunch but also make great dinner spots:

  • NOMAD (Modern Moroccan bistro offering the best views over the Palace de Epices. Come for a casual dinner.)

  • Plus61 (a sister restaurant to NOMAD, the restaurants Australian chef serves up mouthwatering Sydney-style food using local ingredients. It’s a must try.)

  • Terrace des Epices (offering a modern twist to Moroccan dishes, such as the chicken tagine, it is also a great place for pre-dinner drinks as you watch the sun set)

For a traditional Moroccan dinner, try Dar Yacout, Le Tobsil, Kasabin or Ksar Essaoussan. 

Experience la dolce vita in Marrakech at La Trattoria, frequently visited by Yves Saint Laurent. Ask for a poolside-table.  

If you are looking for something livelier, we highly recommend checking out Le Comptoir Darna, serving up traditional Moroccan cuisine followed by a spectacular belly-dancing show that heats up the crowd. Later in the evening the restaurant turns into a nightclub. Another fun spot is Le Salama. 

Bars
If you are looking for a good late-night haunt wander over to Le Bar Churchill at La Mamounia, Gueliz’s own speakeasy Baromètre, the resto-bar club Buddha Bar or the dark and sultry wine bar Le 68. 

IA TIP: Make sure to make reservations (even for lunch) a couple days prior. In Marrakech, people normally go for lunch between 12-2 p.m. Go for dinner around 8:30-9 p.m. after enjoying a pre-dinner drink at sundown.

 
 

SEE & EXPLORE

Souks
When it comes to the souks of the Old City, we recommend letting yourself get lost in the bustling maze of streets that make up the souk. As it can be a bit of a sensory overload, we organized a guided tour of the Medina through our riad for our first day. Not only did this help us get a feel for the area, but we also learned a lot about the different shops, haggling, and how to identify top quality merchandise in the souks.

Shopping
For interiors, two of our favorites were the magical Mustapha Blaoui and El Jouli Miloud, both situated in the Medina.

Stop by Les Nomades De Marrakech, Lahandria, Soufiane Zarib, or Anitan Handmade to sip on tea while shopping for carpets. Chabi Chic, LRNCE and SOME Slowconcept offer smaller trinkets and homeware.

For beautiful dresses, dusters and accessories, check out LALY, 33 Rue Majorelle, Topolina, Sarah Maj or Alnour. Visit Herboriste du Paradis for all things fragrance.

Culture
To satisfy your cultural appetite visit the Musée Yves Saint Laurent, followed by Le Jardin Majorelle down the road. Tucked away in the Red City is Le Jardin Secret, boasting tranquility away from the bustling Medina. Home to a splendor of architectural landmarks, heritage sites like El Badi Palace, Bahia Palace and Medresa Ben Youssef showcase the artistry and craftsmanship of Morocco.

If the weather isn’t in your favor, stop by the Marrakech Museum of Photography and Visual Arts.

Our next time around we will certainly be booking a sunrise hot air balloon ride, a stay at the dessert Scarabeo Camp, and a trip to the Berber Lodge near the Atlas Mountains.